Intimate Shinto shrine with a verdant mountainside setting, reached by a lantern-lined path.

Universal Studios Japan

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Kifune Shrine

Kifune Shrine, nestled in the forested mountains north of Kyoto, is primarily dedicated to the deity of water, Takaokami no Kami. Uniquely, its connection to water extends beyond mere sustenance; it's deeply intertwined with matchmaking and warding off bad relationships. The shrine's signature omikuji, or fortune slips, are blank upon purchase. Only when placed on the surface of the shrine's sacred water spring do the fortunes magically appear, revealing insights into one's destiny. This water divination is a central element of the Kifune experience.

Historically, the shrine was favored by Kyoto's geisha, who sought blessings for success and protection in their profession, further cementing its association with relationships and fortune. The long, lantern-lined stone staircase leading to the main hall creates a dramatic and atmospheric approach, especially enchanting during winter snowfalls. The Okunomiya, the original site of the shrine deeper in the forest, houses a sacred stone believed to be the resting place of the deity, adding another layer of spiritual significance to this mountain sanctuary.

Introduction

Kibune, nestled in the mountains north of Kyoto, is a sought-after location for experiencing kawadoko, enhanced by the presence of the venerated Kifune Shrine. The riverside terraces here are a highlight of this serene mountain town, offering a unique dining experience. Many restaurants and inns line the Kibune River, constructing terraces directly over the water, allowing diners to dip their toes in the stream while enjoying traditional kaiseki cuisine.

Kibune Nakayoshi, a Japanese inn, provides reasonably priced lunch courses during the summer kawadoko season, offering an authentic experience with terraces built directly on the river. Kifune Hiroya offers an open-air riverside dining experience, allowing guests to feel connected with nature while overlooking the clear stream of the Kifune River. Every seat is designed to be close to the flowing water, creating a refreshing atmosphere. Kifune Beniya, a long-established ryokan nestled in a tranquil forest, provides a deeply atmospheric kawadoko dining experience accompanied by the soothing sounds of the river. For a more casual experience, Sagenta, a self-service café and restaurant located in the upper reaches of the Kibune River, allows you to enjoy kawadoko dining without a reservation.

The kawadoko in Kibune offer a distinct contrast to the kawayuka in Kyoto, as they are situated mere feet above the river, providing a cooler environment due to the higher elevation and proximity to the water. These sturdy platforms, constructed with metal and bamboo and topped with tatami floors, enhance the traditional Japanese experience.

Kawadoko Riverside Dining

At Kifune Shrine, the Mizuura Mikuji offers a unique fortune-telling experience deeply connected to the shrine's dedication to water. Purchase a blank fortune slip and place it on the holy water stream near the main hall to reveal your fortune. As the paper absorbs the water, the written prophecy emerges, detailing aspects of your life such as love, work, health, and dreams.

This interactive method is exclusive to Kifune Shrine, setting it apart from other shrines. For non-Japanese speakers, a QR code on the slip provides translations in English, Chinese, Simplified Chinese, and Korean, along with an audio recording of the fortune. The water used in the Mizuura Mikuji is considered sacred, sourced from a fresh spring that has flowed continuously. Some believe the water deity enhances the accuracy of the omikuji, offering profound insights.

The act of watching the fortune appear on the paper creates a memorable and spiritual moment, linking visitors directly to the shrine's natural elements. Remember to capture a photo of your revealed fortune before the water obscures the message. This custom highlights Kifune Shrine as a destination where ancient traditions meet modern accessibility, providing a personal and engaging experience for every visitor.

Mizuura Mikuji Fortune Telling

Kifune Shrine is infamous as a primary site for the Ushi no Toki Mairi, or Cursed Hour Visit, a traditional Japanese curse ritual. This practice is rooted in a myth where a woman, abandoned by her husband, sought revenge by performing the ritual at the shrine's original location, the Okumiya. The Ushi no Toki Mairi, conducted between 1 and 3 AM, involves a woman dressed in white, sometimes with a red-painted face and red robes, wearing an iron crown affixed with three lit candles. She hammers nails into a sacred tree, often through a straw effigy of her target containing their hair or nails, while uttering curses.

Legend says that Kifune Shrine's deity took pity on Hashihime, a woman who became a vengeful demon. She was instructed to paint her face with cinnabar, adorn her head with a three-pronged trivet holding burning pine torches, and immerse herself in the Uji River for twenty-one days to complete her transformation. This legend is believed to have influenced the Ushi no Toki Mairi.

The curse is believed to succeed after seven consecutive nights, causing the target's death. However, being seen during the ritual is thought to nullify the curse. The Kifune Shrine is closely associated with this ritual, with the story of Abe no Seimei, a famous onmyoji, attempting to break such a curse enacted at the shrine.

Ushi no Toki Mairi Curse Ritual

Kifune Shrine in Kyoto is dedicated to Takaokami-no-kami, the deity who controls water, and has been worshipped as the protector of Kyoto's waters for centuries. The shrine's name, originally written with characters meaning "the source of power for all living things," reflects its deep connection to water as the essence of life. Legend says that Princess Tamayori, guided by a divine vision, journeyed to the valley and discovered a mystical spring, Reikyo-Fukui, recognizing it as the dwelling place of Takao no Kami.

Rain-controlling rituals have been dedicated to this deity through the ages to protect Kyoto's waters, crucial for the livelihoods of its people. Emperors once offered horses in sacrifice to ensure favorable rain, a practice that evolved into the tradition of ema tablets. The shrine's omikuji, called "mizu-ura mikuji," are unique fortune-telling slips that reveal their messages when placed in the shrine's holy water stream, believed to be imbued with the deity's ability to see all things.

Visitors can drink the sacred mountain water, called goshinsui, which has been praised since ancient times. The shrine is located at the source of two of Kyoto’s major rivers, further emphasizing its connection to water. The clear pronunciation of "Kifune" was intentionally given to the shrine, distinguishing it from the town of Kibune, to honor its dedication to the deities of water.

Kifune Shrine

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