Temple complex with a partially crumbled 15th-century chedi & a pillar believed to protect the city.

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Lanna Folklife

Wat Chedi Luang

Wat Chedi Luang, a monumental ruin in Chiang Mai, once housed the Emerald Buddha, Thailand's most revered religious icon, before its relocation to Bangkok. Construction began in the 14th century, reaching its peak under King Saen Muang Ma, who intended it to enshrine his father's ashes. The chedi's height, originally estimated at over 80 meters, was intentionally reduced after damage from an earthquake in 1545, leaving a striking, truncated pyramid. Intriguingly, the eastern side features a replica of the original staircase guarded by imposing naga serpents. Elephants, once adorning each side, now only partially remain, bearing witness to centuries of history. A unique aspect is the presence of a guardian Gumphan spirit, believed to reside within the temple grounds, offering protection and fortune to visitors who pay their respects. The temple also houses a significant collection of Buddha images, reflecting diverse artistic styles and periods, offering a glimpse into the evolution of Buddhist art in the region.

Introduction

Wat Chedi Luang's restoration, particularly the project backed by UNESCO and the Japanese government in the 1990s, sparked controversy in Chiang Mai. The core of the debate centered on the integration of Central Thai architectural styles, which some locals felt were not authentic to the Lanna origins of the temple. This divergence from traditional Lanna design principles fueled discontent among those who believed the restoration should have strictly adhered to the original architectural heritage. Some locals even preferred the chedi to remain as it was, a ruin overgrown with vegetation, feeling that this was a more genuine reflection of its history.

The chedi, originally constructed between 1385 and 1402, suffered significant damage over the centuries, including the collapse of its upper 30 meters due to an earthquake in 1545. The restoration aimed to stabilize the structure, but disagreements arose because no one could agree on what the chedi originally looked like. The integration of new elements that reflected styles from Central Thailand, rather than the Lanna Kingdom, was seen as a misrepresentation of the temple's historical identity. Despite the restoration efforts, the controversies highlight the challenges of balancing preservation with historical accuracy and local sentiment.

Restoration Controversies

Wat Chedi Luang, or the Temple of the Big Stupa, stands as a testament to the grandeur of the Lanna Kingdom, with its massive chedi dominating Chiang Mai's skyline for centuries. Construction of this chedi began in 1391 under King Saenmueangma, intended as a resting place for his father's ashes, though he did not live to see its completion. The ambitious project continued under his widow and subsequent rulers, finally reaching completion in 1475 during King Tilokkarat's reign.

Upon completion, the chedi stood 82 meters tall with a base diameter of 54 meters, making it the largest structure in the Lanna Kingdom. Each side featured a grand staircase guarded by Nagas, leading to niches enshrining Buddha images. Sinhalese-style stone elephants adorned a platform just below the stairways. The temple complex was originally made up of three temples — Wat Chedi Luang, Wat Ho Tham and Wat Sukmin.

In 1468, the Emerald Buddha, Thailand's most revered religious artifact, was installed in the eastern niche of the chedi. However, an earthquake in 1545 caused the upper 30 meters of the structure to collapse, and the Emerald Buddha was later moved to Luang Prabang. Despite the damage, the remaining structure continues to define the city’s skyline.

In the early 1990s, the chedi underwent a controversial reconstruction, financed by UNESCO and the Japanese government. A copy of the Emerald Buddha made from black jade was placed in the reconstructed eastern niche for the chedi's 600th anniversary in 1995.

Lanna Kingdom's Largest Chedi

Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai is a prime location for engaging in Monk Chats, offering a unique cultural exchange. The temple's Monk Chat program, established in 1996, serves as a language training initiative for students of Mahamakut Buddhist University, Lanna Campus, situated within the monastery. This program provides an opportunity for visitors to interact with young monks, typically of prep school age, accompanied by their teachers, in informal discussions held at round tables.

Monk Chats at Wat Chedi Luang take place daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., with the most activity on Saturday and Sunday mornings. The chats occur at outdoor tables on the north side of the temple complex, where you'll find up to 50 young monks ready to converse. These interactions are mutually beneficial; monks practice their English, while visitors gain insights into Thai culture and Buddhist philosophy. Conversations are open-ended, allowing for discussions on various topics, and often involve the monks using cheat sheets with questions to initiate dialogue.

Wat Chedi Luang's Monk Chat program welcomes all visitors, regardless of gender, and encourages cultural exchange. These conversations typically last about an hour, especially with larger groups, but even a brief introduction is valuable. The program also seeks volunteers from abroad to assist with English teaching, providing an immersive cultural experience.

Monk Chats

Wat Chedi Luang is closely associated with Chiang Mai's City Pillar, known as Sao Inthakin, which translates to ‘The Lord Indra’s Pillar.’ This pillar is central to the city's spiritual protection and the well-being of its inhabitants. Originally housed in Wat Inthakin (Wat Sadeu Muang) in 1296, the pillar was relocated to Wat Chedi Luang in 1800 by King Chao Kawila, who constructed a new shrine for it after the original site decayed during Burmese occupation.

The City Pillar, now enshrined underground within Wat Chedi Luang, is marked by a traditional Lanna-style shrine at the center of the old city. King Kawila also planted three giant dipterocarp trees outside the shrine, believed to safeguard the city alongside the pillar; local tradition holds that if these trees fall, so too will Chiang Mai. The shrine's interior boasts vibrant murals depicting the Buddha's life, with a golden standing Buddha above the pillar.

An annual festival, the Inthakin Festival, is dedicated to venerating the City Pillar and the guardian spirits of Chiang Mai, typically held in May. During the festival, locals offer flowers to the pillar and participate in processions around the city, seeking blessings for prosperity and protection. The legend of the Inthakin pillar tells of its divine origin, brought by the god Indra to protect the city from demons, highlighting its importance as a spiritual anchor for Chiang Mai.

City Pillar (Sao Inthakin)

Within Wat Chedi Luang, the Phra Chao Attarot, also known as the Eighteen-cubit Buddha, stands as a significant statue cast in the late 14th century. This Buddha image resides in the larger of the two viharns (prayer halls) on the temple grounds, near the entrance. The statue shares historical significance with the temple itself, dating back to the initial construction of Wat Chedi Luang.

The Phra Chao Attarot is a large standing Buddha statue and is a key feature inside the main prayer hall, constructed in 1928. As visitors walk towards the entrance of the main prayer hall, they are met by the Phra Chao Attarot Buddha statue. The statue holds great historical and cultural importance.

The statue is a focal point for those who visit the temple to pray or pay their respects. The presence of the Phra Chao Attarot within the viharn contributes to the spiritual ambiance of Wat Chedi Luang, inviting visitors to reflect on the temple's long history.

Phra Chao Attarot Buddha Statue

Wat Chedi Luang, nestled in Chiang Mai, once served as the esteemed sanctuary for the Emerald Buddha, Thailand's most revered Buddha image. In 1468, King Tilokarat relocated the Emerald Buddha from Chiang Rai to Wat Chedi Luang, housing it within the chedi's eastern niche. For 85 years, the temple became a focal point for pilgrims and worshippers seeking the Emerald Buddha's blessings.

The temple's spiritual significance is deeply intertwined with the Emerald Buddha's history. Despite the damage inflicted by a severe earthquake in 1545, which led to the Emerald Buddha's departure and subsequent relocation, Wat Chedi Luang remains a pivotal site. The earthquake caused the Emerald Buddha to fall from its niche and slightly chipped the statue.

To commemorate the chedi's 600th anniversary in 1995, a replica of the Emerald Buddha, crafted from black jade, was donated to Wat Chedi Luang and placed in its original niche. This replica, known as Phra Yok, now stands as a venerated image, drawing devotees and serving as a reminder of the temple's historical role. Wat Chedi Luang's legacy as the Emerald Buddha's former abode continues to resonate, solidifying its importance in Chiang Mai's religious and cultural landscape. The temple's enduring spiritual aura attracts visitors seeking to connect with this significant chapter in Thai history.

Wat Chedi Luang

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